Making the cut

Written by Brian Toohey

We can’t help but notice when someone has a fabulous haircut or luminous color. What is it about hair that garners so much attention?

Great hair holds our gaze.  Given the proper care and attention, it becomes our most important accessory.

The formula is simple  — a haircut with the right shape and proportion, a color tone that suits your complexion and a conditioner that helps maintain vibrancy.

I will share with you an experience I had recently with one of my long-standing clients.  We met when we worked together at Barneys New York.

Because Bonnie Pressman works in fashion and travels a lot, her hair always needs to be on-point and effortless. On her most recent visit to the salon, I was shocked at how good her hair felt. It was like a child’s hair  — soft and full of life. When I asked what she had done to her hair, she reminded me about the Olaplex treatment I had recommended. It’s a wonderful new product that rebuilds the hair by reconstructing the bonds broken down by color processing and excessive heat.  Bonnie used the product at home  — leaving it on while she worked so the product kept working.  It’s a tip I’ve shared with all my clients  — an extra hour of conditioning is worth the wait.

My approach to Bonnie’s highlights is also designed to keep her hair fresh and in great shape longer.  The technique I use is called Lux Balayage.  Each strand is painted individually so there is no grow-out line. In order to maintain her hair’s good condition, I mix several L’Oreal products together. It’s a formula I’ve refined over time to optimal results.

A new season is a great time to try something new. When deciding on your fresh, new look for spring, it’s important to create the proper balance between shape and proportion. It can mean the difference between a style that opens your eyes and puts a smile on your face, or not.

This holds true whether you have a bob that moves and swings or a short, flirty deconstructed cut.  A version of the shag is back on the runway. It’s not for everyone, but if you have hair that’s been long for far too long, this new shag with feathered fringe can be just the transition you need.  It will add lift and volume and, with the addition of some well-placed highlights for that pop of color, you’re spring- ready.

If you blow-dry your hair, try towel drying it first.  Then add in some product. I recommend Oribe styling aids. There’s a full range of products for every type of hair and look.

The right brush makes a difference, too. I prefer round brushes with mostly natural bristles. They will smooth the hair while giving it a tighter turn for a longer lasting shape. Ibiza brushes are good quality and come in many sizes.

If your hair is medium length to long, start from underneath and aim the dryer towards the scalp. For a short cut, use your fingers to lift from the scalp while drying.

I believe in not overdoing it. Just remember, treat your hair with love and it will never leave you.

Contact Brian at brianwtoohey@gmail.com; at the Jaafar Tazi Salon, 149 Greenwich Ave., Greenwich, 203-340-2525; and at Mingle New York Salon, 141 E. 55th St., 212-759-2397.

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